Buffalo Lunch was supposed to start today. For real. Unfortunately this Buffalo Luncher forgot he was going to be out of town in Virginia. The walk to downtown Buffalo was going to take too long so instead I decided I would write up a quick dispatch from the twilight zone. It's a good place to start from since it highlights just so much of what makes Buffalo a great place to eat. It'll get us in the mood.
I do mean the twilight zone too. I'm in Reston, VA, specifically the "Reston Town Center" and it is a scary place.
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| Come child, join us. |
Reston Town Center is a square half-mile outdoor mall and business park. It was constructed in a laboratory by German scientists high on Ecstasy and Redbull. It's a planned community of cement and sterile restaurants and bright sunny skies. It has a movie theater, and a Hyatt, and more parking garages than the entire state of New Jersey. I arrived in the midst of some event that involved children wearing ball gowns everywhere they went. Oh, and a Talbots. Do people still shop at Talbots?
The corners are all sharp, the curbs brightly painted and un-chipped, and the sidewalks are so clean that if you dropped an ice-cream cone you would seriously consider licking it right up from that bright red brick. That brief pause would be the demise of your treat however as whirring robots were revealed from previously hidden nooks and quickly swept up the mess. In Reston Town Center there is no time to have a mess laying around. It would ruin the vibe.
It's the kind of place where you feel totally out of sorts at all times. Seriously, their motto is
"Where Outside is In!". I guess "Black is White and Up is Down" was already taken.
Feed Me Seymour!
Maybe the worst part of all is eating here.
I shouldn't be too critical; the restaurants are not bad in Town Center. The food is good and often unique in ways you don't see a lot of other places. There are many options (their website claims 30) and a rich variety to those options. They are clean, the staff is friendly, and surprisingly nothing is wildly overpriced. I expected to spend my week drowning my sorrows with Oreo milkshakes at Applebees, so I suppose I shouldn't complain. But I will.
What bothers me the most is that the restaurants here are boring. I would like to sugar coat it somehow but I can't
For starters, they're all built according to "The Plan". I haven't seen "The Plan" but clearly it exists. Every restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating with a bar and an entrance both from the street as well as whatever office building it's stuck to. They run the same hours, serve the same brands of wine and beer, and presumably all share one gigantic kitchen below the city streets staffed by brainwashed itinerant workers. There is every kind of restaurant but only one of any given kind. Presumably competition is too mean-spirited for the Town Center.
Nothing is locally owned. There is no dirty pub with a guy named "Frank" or "Spazz" serving deep fried whatever-was-in-the-back-of-the-freezer. No old moms hand making food in the kitchen or enthusiastic gay couples running a trendy wine bar. I met the same bartender three times and got the same introduction from him every time as if we had never met.
You might think I'm being picky and I probably am. But I hope you understand better after the next thirty days are up. Buffalo is a wildly colorful town and a great place to get food, even if it's not fancy. It's the anti-Reston in almost every way and that's a big part of the reason I love it.
Il Mio Bel Salvatore!
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| Vapiano only looks awesome because it is |
Reston did have a surprise for me though. A cool restaurant with great food and bare-knuckled pricing and character, ambiance, and decor to spare. The sort of restaurant that can restore a person's faith in humanity and frankly has no business being in Town Center.
Most surprising of all? It's a
franchise.
Vapiano (which translates to something like "We own you now, son") is a German restaurant chain that serves casual Italian-esque food. It was a great space to walk into with tall windows that let in a ton of that Reston-manufactured sun. The tables and counters and benches were all brushed natural wood. There was an herb garden
in the middle of the restaurant. If you wanted to add some fresh basil to your dish you could walk up to it and pick some basil.
Vapiano doesn't run like American restaurants. As you walk in the hostess hands you a plastic card and sends you on your merry way. That card acts like a charge card and as you walk up to various food stations you place your order with a person who is standing there making your food. On your way out, you hand your card back and settle the bill. Everything is made to order so you have to go and pick up your own food after its ready. You also seat yourself. All of which may sound terrible on paper but was actually wonderful in execution. I ended up seated bistro-style at long benches with total strangers who were perfectly friendly and happy and didn't mind at all sharing a quick meal with me. This does not happen in Buffalo, I know, but it should.
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| Those aren't curtains above him, that's pasta. |
If all of that wasn't enough, the food was delicious. It wasn't anything you couldn't get anywhere else to be sure but it was expertly executed. The pizza was hand tossed, rolled super-thin, and fired in a brick oven perfectly. The pasta is made fresh right in dining room. Seriously, there is a guy in a glass prison rolling out fresh pasta. Who does that?
I'm officially starting the "Get a Vapiano Franchise in Buffalo" campaign right now. Any Signature Span or Major League Baseball initiatives should immediately cease operations and transfer all of their resources into this project. This is the anchor tenant for the waterfront we've been looking for.
Honorable Mention
I can't sign off without making one additional highlight.
The
Market Cellars was an exceptionally cool boutique wine outfit right in Reston Town Center. For such a small shop in such an otherwise normal place they had a wild variety of wines and beers stocked for sale. There were bottles as cheap as ten dollars but also as high as I can count. The proprietor (seen below) was friendly and helpful and sold me an awesome bottle of wine.
If you find yourself in Reston this is a shop that's definitely worth your time to step into.
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| May I see some ID? |